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Deep joy

Went to let the chickens out of the hen house this morning and fcuk me I've got rats, big hole under the fence and tracked back to find the feckers have been burrowing into the garden wall and nesting, inside me and my BSA .22 are going to have lots of fun every night - rats fall when hit!! can't miss the feckers with the magnification on my telescopic sight - even when pissed
 

Rigsby

Lantern Swinger
Hi Stan

i have some 4 tins of .22 airgun pellets going spare (some 2000 rounds).

short of just throwing them away i could post to you and you could refund the postage if that sounds fair

interested?
 

MG Maniac

War Hero
If you've got chickens ... you've got rats! I bought one of those big fuck off rat traps in a box to keep the chickens off the bait for when I'm not lurking behing the hen house with the trusty webley!
 

WreckerL

War Hero
Super Moderator
Put their heads on spikes around the chicken run, it may not act as a warning but you can use them for target practice, a bit like a ratty coconut shy.
 

Kaboom

Midshipman
My parents had a farm when I was a kid, we had rats my Dad used to give me 2p per rat I shot, I was then told to get rid of rat, but decided to keep the rats I had shot and give them to my Dad and collect the money for them again, it took a couple of days before he literally smelled a rat, after that he disposed of the dead ones, did improve my shooting though! :toothy8:
 

Sumo

War Hero
Court one of my spaniels with a fuck off great rat in her mouth the other day, trying to swallow it whole, we do not live in country like, and the Immune Mediated Hemolytic Anemia condition she is being treated for can be caused by rat poison. She is pretty quick, she court a water vole when we were on holiday, but did not kill that so the vole lived to fight anther day, no such luck for ratty.:kermit::bball:
 

MG Maniac

War Hero
Its war I tell you hate the evil hairless tailed fcukers and that lovely splatt sound when you nail the feckers

Trouble is Stan the fcukers breed faster than you can shoot 'em! however a) the local Moggie seems to have taken up permanent residence in our barn (next to the chicken run) and its certainly looking like a fat fcuker now! b) The "Big Cheese" rat trap comes highly recommended ... set it every night and empty the carcasses out the following morning! You don't want to catch your fingers in it! I have know it to catch two of the fcukers at the same time!
 

Sharkey

Banned
Dont see many rats about (stand fast those with two legs) but mate of mine has a few chickens and has bother with mink, loads of the buggers
 

sgtpepperband

War Hero
Book Reviewer
Nah! Chicken feed secure ... still got rats!

Lifted from my Haynes 'Chicken Manual':

Vermin

While there is no strict definition of the term 'vermin', poultry keepers would consider winged vermin to include crows, rooks, magpies, jays, sparrows, pigeons and starlings, while ground vermin would include rats, mice, weasels, stoats, mink, foxes and grey squirrels. The fact that you have a concentration of poultry in a relatively small area will create a natural draw to vermin, as they'll seek out the associated foodstuff, offspring and the birds themselves.

As with many problems, prevention is always better than cure. By investing in proper storage containers for feed you'll limit the amount of grain and other food that's accessible to rats, mice and sparrows, and you should combine this with an organised method of feeding to further limit the available food - for instance, by using covered feed hoppers in runs.

Security of your flock must always be a top priority, as nothing can decimate years of hard work quicker than some of the more vicious vermin. Poultry are prey species and are always at their most vulnerable at night, when they roost, so limit the access that other animals may have by providing good fencing and secure housing.

If you do find you have a vermin problem, then a control method should be used in conjunction with your prevention measures. Although there are live trap options, 'control' usually refers to killing, and includes trapping, poisoning and shooting, although all methods will need a degree of expertise. If in any doubt at all you should consult your local council, who will be able to put you in touch with pest control services.

One option available to the more humanely minded is the growing number of sonic deterrents, which are triggered by movement and emit a high pulse of sound waves that cause discomfort to the animal that sets them off. Specific types can be found for scaring birds, moles and even foxes.

[...]

Rats and Mice

Second only to foxes, these are the animals which poultry keepers typically consider to be vermin, and they're a particular nuisance when you keep chickens. It's not the chickens that attract rodents, but their feed, and bad feed storage and feeding practice quickly leads to a bad rat or mouse problem. Both will climb walls with ease and will happily chew through housing, making them a costly pest to eliminate.

A good outdoor cat (Siamese crosses are the best) will keep the mouse population down, while a trained dog (a terrier is best) will track and destroy nests of rats, and normally this is enough when combined with good husbandry. However if you have a serious problem you may well consider traps and poisons, both of which are effective. If you're using a dog, make sure it can't get access to the runs, as many will become indiscriminate in their killing once they start and you'll lose the very thing you're trying to protect.

Traps are of the 'jaws' type, which are designed to snap shut and kill the animal outright, but they still require a little skill in use to be effective. They should be installed in a tunnel for best results, as most vermin hate being exposed and will stick to sheltered runways. You can make use of hedges, walls and ditches, and if setting a trap in a man-made tunnel make sure that the materials you use are local to the area in order to blend in with its surroundings. The construction should be wide enough for the trap to shut correctly and allow you to maintain it.

Should you find a rat still alive in the trap, a strong swift blow across the nose or a pellet from an air rifle should kill it instantly. Remember to wear gloves to protect yourself from Weil's disease, which can be fatal.

Poisons are an alternative option if you have a large population, or if the animals have become wary of traps, although they're distressingly indiscriminate in their effects, as they'll kills most things that eat them; and as they have an anti-coagulant effect on the blood, the animal bleeds to death, which is neither quick nor painless. A simple bair box or a tunnel is a good choice, as other animals can't get to the poison and you'll just need to remember to change brand every month or so in order to prevent resistance to a particular chemical.

Mice will also take rat poison, but quickly become wary of it, and if affect can die in the open, making them an attractive food option to other animals - including your domestic pets - which become poisoned in turn.

Tip: Rats dislike the smell of mint, and rat-catchers of old would soak rags in mint to discourage them.

Mink, Stoats and Weasels

These members of the weasel family are all ruthless killers of poultry, often leaving no trail, as they kill swiftly and drag the carcass away immediately. Their high metabolic rate makes them aggressive and constantly active hunters, able to scale fences and squeeze through the smallest of gaps in search of their quarry, with young birds being especially vulnerable.

Notoriously difficult to keep out of a poultry run, they do find smooth metal such as galvanised steel difficult to scale, but you may find it unsightly to surround your runs with this, in which case trapping with something like a fen trap is recommended. Make sure you follow the instructions carefully when setting these, as they can be dangerous if handled incorrectly. If you find any rat holes or mole runs make sure to fill them in, as weasels and their ilk will use them to gain access to your poultry.


I have had ex-battery hens in my garden for years with no special vermin deterrent measures, other than my house cats and ensuring the security integrity of my coop and shed (where the food is stored). Despite living in an area infested with foxes, we have never seen one in or near our garden. My chickens' greatest problem at the moment seems to be the cold.
 

Rumrat

War Hero
Lifted from my Haynes 'Chicken Manual':

Vermin

While there is no strict definition of the term 'vermin', poultry keepers would consider winged vermin to include crows, rooks, magpies, jays, sparrows, pigeons and starlings, while ground vermin would include rats, mice, weasels, stoats, mink, foxes and grey squirrels. The fact that you have a concentration of poultry in a relatively small area will create a natural draw to vermin, as they'll seek out the associated foodstuff, offspring and the birds themselves.

As with many problems, prevention is always better than cure. By investing in proper storage containers for feed you'll limit the amount of grain and other food that's accessible to rats, mice and sparrows, and you should combine this with an organised method of feeding to further limit the available food - for instance, by using covered feed hoppers in runs.

Security of your flock must always be a top priority, as nothing can decimate years of hard work quicker than some of the more vicious vermin. Poultry are prey species and are always at their most vulnerable at night, when they roost, so limit the access that other animals may have by providing good fencing and secure housing.

If you do find you have a vermin problem, then a control method should be used in conjunction with your prevention measures. Although there are live trap options, 'control' usually refers to killing, and includes trapping, poisoning and shooting, although all methods will need a degree of expertise. If in any doubt at all you should consult your local council, who will be able to put you in touch with pest control services.

One option available to the more humanely minded is the growing number of sonic deterrents, which are triggered by movement and emit a high pulse of sound waves that cause discomfort to the animal that sets them off. Specific types can be found for scaring birds, moles and even foxes.

[...]

Rats and Mice

Second only to foxes, these are the animals which poultry keepers typically consider to be vermin, and they're a particular nuisance when you keep chickens. It's not the chickens that attract rodents, but their feed, and bad feed storage and feeding practice quickly leads to a bad rat or mouse problem. Both will climb walls with ease and will happily chew through housing, making them a costly pest to eliminate.

A good outdoor cat (Siamese crosses are the best) will keep the mouse population down, while a trained dog (a terrier is best) will track and destroy nests of rats, and normally this is enough when combined with good husbandry. However if you have a serious problem you may well consider traps and poisons, both of which are effective. If you're using a dog, make sure it can't get access to the runs, as many will become indiscriminate in their killing once they start and you'll lose the very thing you're trying to protect.

Traps are of the 'jaws' type, which are designed to snap shut and kill the animal outright, but they still require a little skill in use to be effective. They should be installed in a tunnel for best results, as most vermin hate being exposed and will stick to sheltered runways. You can make use of hedges, walls and ditches, and if setting a trap in a man-made tunnel make sure that the materials you use are local to the area in order to blend in with its surroundings. The construction should be wide enough for the trap to shut correctly and allow you to maintain it.

Should you find a rat still alive in the trap, a strong swift blow across the nose or a pellet from an air rifle should kill it instantly. Remember to wear gloves to protect yourself from Weil's disease, which can be fatal.

Poisons are an alternative option if you have a large population, or if the animals have become wary of traps, although they're distressingly indiscriminate in their effects, as they'll kills most things that eat them; and as they have an anti-coagulant effect on the blood, the animal bleeds to death, which is neither quick nor painless. A simple bair box or a tunnel is a good choice, as other animals can't get to the poison and you'll just need to remember to change brand every month or so in order to prevent resistance to a particular chemical.

Mice will also take rat poison, but quickly become wary of it, and if affect can die in the open, making them an attractive food option to other animals - including your domestic pets - which become poisoned in turn.

Tip: Rats dislike the smell of mint, and rat-catchers of old would soak rags in mint to discourage them.

Mink, Stoats and Weasels

These members of the weasel family are all ruthless killers of poultry, often leaving no trail, as they kill swiftly and drag the carcass away immediately. Their high metabolic rate makes them aggressive and constantly active hunters, able to scale fences and squeeze through the smallest of gaps in search of their quarry, with young birds being especially vulnerable.

Notoriously difficult to keep out of a poultry run, they do find smooth metal such as galvanised steel difficult to scale, but you may find it unsightly to surround your runs with this, in which case trapping with something like a fen trap is recommended. Make sure you follow the instructions carefully when setting these, as they can be dangerous if handled incorrectly. If you find any rat holes or mole runs make sure to fill them in, as weasels and their ilk will use them to gain access to your poultry.


I have had ex-battery hens in my garden for years with no special vermin deterrent measures, other than my house cats and ensuring the security integrity of my coop and shed (where the food is stored). Despite living in an area infested with foxes, we have never seen one in or near our garden. My chickens' greatest problem at the moment seems to be the cold.

Your main problem being Irish is that you have probably plucked them already and not just prior to roasting and definitely post mortem.
 

WreckerL

War Hero
Super Moderator
Lifted from my Haynes 'Chicken Manual':

Vermin

While there is no strict definition of the term 'vermin', poultry keepers would consider winged vermin to include crows, rooks, magpies, jays, sparrows, pigeons and starlings, while ground vermin would include rats, mice, weasels, stoats, mink, foxes and grey squirrels. The fact that you have a concentration of poultry in a relatively small area will create a natural draw to vermin, as they'll seek out the associated foodstuff, offspring and the birds themselves.

As with many problems, prevention is always better than cure. By investing in proper storage containers for feed you'll limit the amount of grain and other food that's accessible to rats, mice and sparrows, and you should combine this with an organised method of feeding to further limit the available food - for instance, by using covered feed hoppers in runs.

Security of your flock must always be a top priority, as nothing can decimate years of hard work quicker than some of the more vicious vermin. Poultry are prey species and are always at their most vulnerable at night, when they roost, so limit the access that other animals may have by providing good fencing and secure housing.

If you do find you have a vermin problem, then a control method should be used in conjunction with your prevention measures. Although there are live trap options, 'control' usually refers to killing, and includes trapping, poisoning and shooting, although all methods will need a degree of expertise. If in any doubt at all you should consult your local council, who will be able to put you in touch with pest control services.

One option available to the more humanely minded is the growing number of sonic deterrents, which are triggered by movement and emit a high pulse of sound waves that cause discomfort to the animal that sets them off. Specific types can be found for scaring birds, moles and even foxes.



I have had ex-battery hens in my garden for years with no special vermin deterrent measures, other than my house cats and ensuring the security integrity of my coop and shed (where the food is stored). Despite living in an area infested with foxes, we have never seen one in or near our garden. My chickens' greatest problem at the moment seems to be the cold.

And not one mention of chavs, pikeys or dole cheats..how bizarre!
 
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