Discussion in 'Motoring' started by clanky, Oct 12, 2007.

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  1. Being part of an organisation that involves a significant amount of travelling on a budget, it would be a nice to have a thread about the rules of buying, running and maintaining an affordable modern classic (aka an old banger)

    Just to start off
    1 Always have breakdown cover.
    2 In bangernomics, the less optional extras, the better.
    3 Always look at the tyres first
  2. 4. Always carry a tool set (a smaller version of the huge chestful you'll need at home)

    5. Always carry a coat and blanket (to lie on whilst you repair bits at the side of the road or to keep you warm whilst awaiting the breakdown services)

    6. Always carry a healthy bunch of spare spark plugs, gapping tool, spare fan belt and an oily rag

    3 more for your list :)
  3. Get a Citroen ZX diesel --the td version -----goes like the clappers and
    about 60 to the gallon .Don't rust either. Engine's good for 200k miles.

    Zantia's --same cheap and cheerfull ----the suspension can be a pig
    but if it Fcuks up bin the car --scrappers value now is £100+

    Mondeo's aint bad either .

    :nemo: :nemo:
  4. Actually, the whole point of bangernomics is that you don't have to drive around in something that is constantly in need of repair. I've never seen or heard of a situation where all 4 sparkplugs have failed at once anyway.
    The idea is too buy something thats old, cheap, but sufficiently mechanically sound that it does not require further outlay.
  5. Only tools required are:

    1. Mobile phone
    2. Breakdown cover
    3. Thats it
  6. I got go a 1982 Granada Ghia estate 2.8l off evilbay, cost 600 quid and a service and ran perfectly never letting me down for a year, sold it on for 600 quid

    It did guzzle the juice, but more fun than a navy nurse!!

    That young geezer off fith gear swears by a big old merc estate

    Golden rule has to be less gadgets and add ons= less to go wrong

    And a bit of AA cover
  7. Big Saloons/Estates frequently make for good bangers, as they tend to have been looked after in early life. The old Vauxhall Senator is a good example of this.
  8. janner

    janner War Hero Book Reviewer

    I'd definately recommend the old Mercs, I had an A reg 2.0l auto estate, went like shite of a shovel, very comfortable did drink the juice a bit but now repair or maintainance bills. I'd go along with Clankys theory
  9. In that case - just buy an old, once top-of-the-range exec type thing. Usually suffered huge depreciation and you get plenty of car for your money
  10. Changing the spheres is a "doddle"....I'm no mechanic but I followed the info in the Haynes manual and Xantia is 10 year old and still going strong :thumright:

  11. Yep still got a Xantia 1.8 16v ride is superb and it goes like shit off a shiny
    shovel --£400 four years ago !!!
    Sphere's are OK --however the hydraulic pipes are VERY expensive if you get a leak ----its micro bore and needs special pipe ends. Main Dealers
    job and price!!

    :nemo: :nemo:
  12. When I read "affordable modern classic" I think Delta Integrale, Celica Sainz edition, Corrado VR6, Clio 182, 306 Rallye, Integra Type-R, Impreza Terzo, RB5 or series McRae. Bangers put me in mind of Passat/406/Vectra/Primera/Mondeo 1.8 or TD with min 150k on the clock.

    Personally I go for chain cam engines where possible, avoid air con and autos, and turbos that smoke on start or hot idle. Clean coolant, brake fluid and non creamy oil are handy signs too. Look for a decent oil filter, pref with an anti drainback valve like Purolator, and check what oil they top off with (synth of correct wt). I also avoid pressure washed engines, they might be clean but the starter or alt or a host of relays will pack up soon. I like tyres to match, at least on each axle, indicates the owner/driver could afford to run it in the first place, and keeps them rotated. New cheap tyres are often a giveaway to a knackered alignment or bent suspension, or on Mondeos the classic post box/clutch change shimmy going uncorrected and eating the fronts. Thrashed interiors are a bad sign too. Someone who cant be bothered to clean their car to sell it, couldn't be bothered to keep it properly either. I always ask a seller where they work and if its their daily driver, if they work less than 10 mins or 5 miles away, its a no-no (knackered cat, bore washout, knackered piston rings/compression). If its a cambelt car, know the change interval and ask when it was done, eg Ford 1.8/2.0 zetec, 80k. Earlier Vauxhalls 1.8/2.0XE, 36k PSA XU engines, 40k (citroen/peugeot)
  13. Cat --all good advice

    However with the engines and running gear today most cars will take a lot of neglect .
    For a car that you want to commute with [weekends ] to save the 'good'
    car at home price is normally the main object .

    Other points are ---------------one year MOT or recent MOT if its a Diesel
    take the car for a run and preferably start it cold ------. Then watch the engine temperature gauge . Give it a ten mile run at least . Stop it and then leave it a while then try a restart . Also check water levels. Cylinder heads on the Peugeot /citroen are bad news.
    Smoky exhaust at start up - no problem .

    :nemo: :nemo:
  14. I suppose it should be rule one, Greenie- cheap means cheap. Obviously you need to be a bit flexible when it comes to cars at this end of the market and accept faults that can either be ignored (torn upholstery) or fixed cheaply (cracked indicator covers), and budget accordingly. Tyres is tyres, tread depth and speed rating matters more than brand.

    Bad heads? I only knew one guy in the pusser who had a bad XU9 (1905cc) pug, a GRi, bought it with bent valves/guides with 90k, seems it must have had a cambelt snap before being sold on. I do know they like the purolator filters (I think PSA even have them as OEM) as it keeps oil in the top for startup. They tend to Kangaroo at low speed as they have such big valves, and they do use a pint of oil about every 700miles or so, which is reportedly normal, I guess that accounts for a sometimes oily idle and condensation on the filler cap as the cap is also a filter/breather for the PCV. I think it changed on the XU10s, the 1998cc 8v and 16v both seemed to use hardly any oil between services.

    K series rovers however, I must have known 30 matelots with 'em that either had head gasket, blown heater matrix or cracked head trouble on 214,216,414,416 and 218/418 early 90's cars. Very small cooling journals and rapid heat soak in the alloy head are supposed to be the problem, I lost count of the guys I saw on the shoulder in Brum at the M5/M6 jam up with a puddle under the car.
  15. Mine done that on the way to Rosyth sealed up the rad and chopped it in for a mondeo
  16. Your third point is excellent:
    If the tyres are cheap/duff then the rest of the car will reflect that.
    Point two is good as well - just how many knobs and buttons do you need?
  17. janner

    janner War Hero Book Reviewer

    4 Make sure the sound system has plenty of volume to cover the engine noise and rattles.

    For cheap and simple I had a Yugo years ago to travel to and from work in locally. No gadgets, unless you count the heater that was either on or off, good on MPG virtually nothing to go wrong, but noisy.
  18. Okay, so now we know what to look for.. how about a list of what to buy?

    My current collection:

    '87 Range Rover Vogue EFi
    '74 Rover 3500 Auto
    '70 Rover 3500 Estate
    '69 Rover 3500 US Spec

    and my modern car for when it's too cold as older ones don't have heaters that work :(
  19. Volvo. Simple, reliable, built like a tank. Get one with a tow bar to impale cars that get too close when braking.
  20. That's what the Rangie is for. Although, I had to remove the full-sized bullbars from the front after being warned by the Police for tapping one too many motorbikes at the lights after they'd cut me up in central London :)

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